Bare feet with the heels lifted and toes resting on a pale wooden parquet floor beside a bedCategoriesEsente Skincare

Dry Elbows, Knees and Heels: Why They Get Rough and What Helps

Short answer: Elbows, knees and heels take pressure and friction every day, and skin that is repeatedly pressed or rubbed tends to thicken to protect what lies underneath. Heels have a further disadvantage: the soles of the feet have no oil glands. Dry air, long hot showers, going barefoot and open-backed shoes add to it. What helps is regular moisturizing, gentle exfoliation on intact skin only, and sensible socks and footwear. Deep, painful, bleeding or persistent cracks belong with a doctor, and if you have diabetes or circulation problems, check with your doctor before caring for calluses or cracked feet yourself.

These are common reasons for rough patches, though not the only ones.

Why these three places

Elbows rest on desks, armrests and car doors. Knees take your weight when you kneel to garden, clean or play on the floor. Heels carry you with every step and rub against the back of your shoes.

Skin often responds to repeated friction and pressure by thickening, the same response that produces calluses, to protect the skin underneath. Thickened skin tends to look rough and feel dry, and on heels it can crack.

Heels have a particular problem

Oil glands are found across most of the body, but the soles of the feet have none. Add weight, friction and thickened skin, and heels are among the easiest places to crack. Does Your Body Need a Skincare Routine Too? covers why some parts of the body dry out faster than others.

What makes it worse

Dry air. Cold, dry weather, a very dry climate and heated or air-conditioned indoor air all take water out of exposed skin. Skincare in a Dry Climate looks at dry climates.

Long, hot showers. Long soaks in hot water add to dryness. Shorter showers in warm rather than hot water are kinder, as Are Hot Showers Bad for Your Skin? explains.

Going barefoot. Walking barefoot on hard floors adds pressure and friction to heels.

Open-backed or worn-out shoes. Shoes that leave the heel exposed, are worn down or fit poorly add to the friction. Closed-back shoes that fit well help.

Moisturize regularly

Apply moisturizer after cleansing or bathing and any appropriate preceding steps, following the product’s directions. Use clean fingertips, and if the product comes in a jar, take it out with a clean cosmetic spatula. Rough heels may also benefit from moisturizer at night, with socks on afterward to help keep it on your feet rather than the sheets.

Which product suits depends on its complete formulation and your skin, not its texture alone. Less is best here too: use the amount the directions call for, because more at one time does not bring faster results. The same habit suits hands, as Why Hands Can Show Age So Easily, and What Helps explains.

Hands smoothing body crème down a leg, a white bathrobe draped over the lap, on a red throw
Moisturizer goes on after bathing, following the product’s directions.

Exfoliate gently, and only on intact skin

Gentle exfoliation can smooth the look and feel of rough, intact skin. A rinse-off body polish or, on suitable intact body areas, textured exfoliating gloves used with light pressure while bathing are possible options.

Exfoliate only intact skin, never cracked, irritated or sore skin, and on heels resist the urge to take thickened skin down hard. Do not cut or shave calluses yourself or use anything sharp on them, and take off only a little at a time: removing too much skin can cause bleeding and infection. Cutting or shaving calluses is a job for a professional.

How often to exfoliate depends on your skin and how it responds, and more often does not mean better. How Often Should You Exfoliate? explains why there is no fixed schedule.

If you have diabetes or circulation problems

With diabetes or another condition that reduces blood flow, even a minor foot injury can become a serious infection. Ask your doctor before managing a corn or callus yourself, and before exfoliating or filing your feet; a dermatologist or podiatrist can look after corns and calluses. People with diabetes are generally advised to check their feet every day, avoid going barefoot, even indoors, and keep moisturizer out of the spaces between the toes.

When to see a professional

See a doctor for heel cracks that are deep, painful or bleeding, or that are not improving with everyday care. Rough patches that itch, spread or look different from the surrounding skin are also worth a professional look.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. There is no universal exfoliation schedule: Victoria considers the individual’s age, skin condition, method of exfoliation and how the skin is responding, and cracked or sore skin is not exfoliated at all. She also emphasizes responding to the environment your skin is experiencing rather than the calendar.

Two examples from the Esenté range for moisturizing rough body areas are Shea Butter Ultra Rich Hydra Crème and Cellaris Body Crème. Their larger sizes and economical pricing can make them practical choices for body care. Both come in jars, so use a clean cosmetic spatula. For exfoliating intact skin, Shea Butter Exfoliating Body Polish is a rinse-off body exfoliant; use it gently and follow its directions. These are examples, not the only suitable choices, and the spending decision is always yours. Esenté works with boutique manufacturers to develop and select formulations that meet the brand’s ingredient, performance and quality criteria. The range also includes Exfoliating Massage Gloves, which may be used gently on appropriate intact body skin while bathing or showering with a bath gel or cleansing bar. They should not be used on cracked, irritated or sore skin. If you are not sure where to start, the Ask Victoria page is open.

Frequently asked questions

Why are my elbows and knees so rough?

They take regular pressure and friction from leaning and kneeling, and repeatedly pressed or rubbed skin tends to thicken. Dry air and hot showers add to it.

Why do heels crack?

Heel skin carries your weight, rubs against shoes and has no oil glands of its own, and thickened skin along the heel rim can split. Dry air and open-backed shoes add to it.

What helps dry, cracked heels?

Moisturize regularly, following the product’s directions, and choose closed-back shoes that fit. See a doctor for deep, painful or bleeding cracks.

Should I file or shave my heels?

Never cut or shave calluses or use anything sharp; leave that to a professional. Gentle filing of intact heels is a common approach; take off only a little, because removing too much can cause bleeding and infection. With diabetes or circulation problems, ask your doctor first.

How often should I exfoliate rough elbows and knees?

There is no fixed schedule. It depends on your skin, the method and how your skin responds. If skin feels sore or looks irritated, stop, and later try again more gently or less often.

Should people with diabetes look after cracked heels at home?

Ask a doctor, dermatologist or podiatrist first. With diabetes or circulation problems, even small foot injuries can become serious.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.

A practitioner seated facing a client, writing in a notebook on her knee as they talkCategoriesEsente Skincare

How to Choose an Aesthetician

Short answer: Look for a current license, solid experience and someone who listens. Your state board can confirm whether an aesthetician’s license is current. A good first appointment starts with questions about your skin, routine, medications and goals, and the care that follows is chosen for you. Hygiene should match the tool and the procedure. Product suggestions should come with reasons, respect your budget and leave the decision with you. Meaningful visible improvement is a reasonable goal, and a good aesthetician will talk about it honestly, without guaranteed or unsupported promises.

Much of this can be checked on a first visit.

Check the license

In the United States, aestheticians are licensed at the state level. In Arizona, for example, the Arizona Barbering and Cosmetology Board licenses aestheticians, along with nail technicians, cosmetologists, hairstylists and barbers.

Many practitioners display their license, and your state board can confirm that it is current. Titles vary, so check the license itself rather than a job title. What an aesthetician may do under that license is also set by the state, and What Aestheticians Can and Cannot Legally Do explains how that works.

Experience and a practitioner who listens

A license is the starting point. Experience matters too: ask how long the practitioner has been practicing and how often they perform the treatment you are considering.

Listening matters as much. A good first appointment starts with questions, on a form, in conversation, or both. Expect to be asked about:

  • what you would like from the appointment
  • your current routine, including any retinoid or exfoliating formulations
  • prescription skincare or other medications
  • allergies and past reactions to skincare
  • recent procedures and recent sun exposure
  • whether your skin is currently irritated, sunburned or sore

Your answers shape what is appropriate on the day. If you are not asked, offer the information anyway.

Hygiene that matches the tool and the procedure

Cleaning, disinfection and sterilization are different steps. Cleaning removes visible soil, disinfection uses chemicals to kill most germs that can cause infection, and sterilization destroys all forms of microbial life. A tool that has only been cleaned is not the same as one that has also been disinfected, and the step a tool needs depends on what it is and how it is used.

Each state sets its own rules. Arizona’s barbering and cosmetology rules, for example, require hand washing before each client and clean linens for each client. Reusable non-electrical tools are cleaned, rinsed, dried and then fully immersed in an EPA-registered disinfectant, and electrical equipment is disinfected before each use. Items that cannot be disinfected, such as cotton pads and sponges, are thrown away after use. Lancets used to release trapped oil and debris from a follicle must be pre-sterilized and disposable. When only part of a product is used, it must be removed without contaminating the rest, which is the idea behind The Spatula Rule.

On gloves, Arizona’s rules require clean, fluid-proof, single-use protective gloves during any service where bodily discharge is present or likely to occur because of the service, with the gloves discarded after use. That rule covers the services the board licenses, including nail services. Massage therapy is regulated by a separate board. If you are unsure how tools are cleaned and disinfected, ask; a good practitioner will welcome it.

Hands being washed under running water at a small round steel sink with a chrome tap
Hand washing before each client is one of the basics you can see.

A clear account of the treatment

Before a treatment starts, you should know what it involves, how your skin may look afterward and what aftercare to follow. What Happens in a Professional Facial? describes the possible components, so you know what to ask about.

A good aesthetician is also clear about limits. Aestheticians do not diagnose skin conditions. If they notice something that needs a medical opinion, the right response is to suggest you see a doctor or dermatologist. Some procedures are allowed under an aesthetics license in some states and not others, as Microdermabrasion, Dermaplaning and Dermabrasion: What Is the Difference? explains.

Recommendations without pressure, within your budget

Suggesting products for home use is a normal part of the job, and a useful recommendation explains what the product is for, why it suits your skin and how it fits with what you already use. It respects your budget and leaves you free to say no or to think it over. Good care does not depend on buying the most expensive products. A good aesthetician will also explain which products used in a treatment are professional-only and which you could use at home.

Realistic, encouraging expectations

Professional treatments and a suitable home routine can bring meaningful visible improvement in how skin looks, and it is reasonable to hope for that. A good aesthetician will describe what a treatment can help with and what depends on your own skin. The thing to watch for is a guaranteed or unsupported promise.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. Victoria believes informed product selection comes first: before introducing a new skincare product, understand what it is intended to do, whether it is appropriate for your skin, how it should be used and what ingredients it contains. She respects her clients’ budgets, values effective affordable options and leaves the spending decision to the client.

At Younger You Clinique, professional-strength peels and exfoliating treatments are among the products reserved for professional use. Many of the other skincare products used during treatments are also available for appropriate home use. During treatments, Victoria wears gloves throughout and changes them as appropriate between treatment steps to help maintain careful hygiene and avoid cross-contamination. That is part of her own protocol and is not a description of what every practitioner does. If you have a question about a treatment or a recommendation you have been given, the Ask Victoria page is open.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if an aesthetician is licensed?

Ask to see the license. Your state’s licensing board can confirm whether it is current.

What questions should I ask an aesthetician before a treatment?

Ask about their experience with it, what it involves, what your skin may look like afterward, what aftercare to follow and how tools are cleaned and disinfected.

Can an aesthetician diagnose skin problems?

No. Aestheticians can describe what they observe and suggest you see a doctor or dermatologist.

Do I have to buy the products my aesthetician recommends?

No. A good recommendation explains what a product is for and why it suits your skin, respects your budget and leaves the decision with you.

Do aestheticians have to wear gloves?

It depends on the state and the service being performed. Arizona’s rules, for example, require clean, single-use protective gloves during services where bodily discharge is present or likely. Victoria chooses to wear gloves throughout her treatments and changes them as appropriate between treatment steps as part of her own hygiene protocol.

What is a red flag at a facial appointment?

Skipping the consultation, visible lapses in hygiene, vague answers about the treatment or the practitioner’s license, guaranteed or unsupported promises, and pressure to buy.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.

A gloved practitioner guiding a handheld microdermabrasion wand across a client's cheek, the client lying back with eyes closedCategoriesEsente Skincare

Microdermabrasion, Dermaplaning and Dermabrasion: What Is the Difference?

Short answer: The names sound alike, but the procedures differ in equipment, intensity and who performs them. Microdermabrasion is a controlled professional mechanical exfoliation of the skin’s surface, using a handheld device. Dermaplaning uses an appropriate sterile blade or tool in trained hands to remove surface cells and fine facial hair. Dermabrasion is a substantially more aggressive medical resurfacing procedure, performed by physicians with numbing or anesthesia. Who may perform the first two depends on your state. Recovery and aftercare vary by procedure and by person, so follow your provider’s directions.

The differences come down to the tool, the depth and the professional oversight.

Three procedures, three levels of intensity

Two are professional exfoliation procedures offered in dermatology practices and, depending on the state, by licensed aestheticians. The third is a medical procedure. One way to keep them straight is by intensity: microdermabrasion and dermaplaning work on the surface, while dermabrasion goes considerably further and belongs in a physician’s hands.

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a controlled form of professional mechanical exfoliation. A practitioner passes a handheld device over the skin to remove the outermost layer of surface cells. Some devices propel fine abrasive crystals against the skin with gentle suction; others use a tip with an abrasive diamond surface.

It is performed in dermatology practices, and in salons and spas where state rules allow. Temporary redness or mild swelling for a day or two can occur. Home devices are not the same as the procedure a dermatologist performs.

Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning is a professional mechanical exfoliation technique in which a trained practitioner uses an appropriate sterile blade to remove superficial dead skin cells and fine vellus hair, often called peach fuzz.

It should not be performed on skin with open wounds, abrasions, sunburn or other irritation. The hair grows back, and removing it with a blade does not change its thickness or color.

Dermabrasion

Dermabrasion is a substantially more aggressive medical resurfacing procedure. A dermatologist or plastic surgeon uses a high-speed rotary instrument, such as an abrasive diamond wheel or a wire brush, to remove the outer layers of skin to a much greater depth than either procedure above. The area is numbed first, and some cases involve sedation or general anesthesia.

Physicians use it for concerns such as certain scars and deeper lines. Recovery takes considerably longer than after the other two, with aftercare, such as ointments or dressings, set by the physician.

A woman holding up a hand mirror to look closely at her face in a bright room with tall windows
Knowing which procedure is which is the first question to settle before you book anything.

Professional procedures and home devices

A home exfoliating or cleansing device is not a smaller version of any of these procedures. The equipment differs: professional devices, sterile blades and high-speed medical instruments are not consumer tools. The intensity differs: dermabrasion in particular reaches far deeper than anything meant for routine home use. And the oversight differs: a trained, licensed professional assesses your skin, performs the procedure and sets your aftercare.

This article therefore focuses on professional treatment. Esenté does not recommend automatic bristled facial cleansing devices for routine cleansing because of unknown bristle firmness, pressure and friction, and the potential for unintended repeated mechanical exfoliation.

Who can perform what depends on your state

Scope of practice for aestheticians is set state by state. Some state boards allow dermaplaning under an aesthetics license, while others have ruled it outside that license. Arizona’s barbering and cosmetology rules, for example, limit licensees’ skin-removal techniques to the non-living, uppermost layer of skin, apart from procedures otherwise allowed under state law. What Aestheticians Can and Cannot Legally Do explains how boards draw those lines.

Ask who will perform the procedure and what license they hold; How to Choose an Aesthetician lists other questions.

Before and after

Tell your provider beforehand about any retinoid or exfoliating formulations you use, prescription skincare or other medications, and whether your skin is irritated or sunburned.

There is no single recovery timeline for any of the three, and your provider’s aftercare directions come first. Sun protection matters after all three, but what to apply to freshly resurfaced skin, and when, should follow those directions. Once your provider confirms your skin is ready, daily broad-spectrum sunscreen remains part of your routine.

Home exfoliation is a different category

Retail exfoliants are either physical, using fine particles or texture, or chemical, using acids or enzymes. Physical vs Chemical Exfoliation: What Is the Difference? covers both, and Enzyme Peel vs Chemical Peel: What’s the Difference? compares the chemical routes. Go gently, follow the product’s directions and do not exfoliate skin that is cracked, irritated or sore. Having a professional procedure is not a reason to exfoliate more often at home.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. There is no universal exfoliation schedule. Victoria considers the individual’s age, skin condition, method of exfoliation and how the skin is responding. Skin-cell turnover generally changes with age, so an appropriate interval for one person may be entirely inappropriate for another. The objective is to exfoliate when needed, not because a certain number of days has passed. At Younger You Clinique, professional-strength peels and exfoliating treatments are among the products reserved for professional use.

For home care, Oligo-Peel Exfoliation Crème provides physical exfoliation with aluminum oxide, in a formulation that also includes botanical extracts and skin-conditioning ingredients. It is a rinse-off retail product, distinct from every procedure above, and one example among options that may suit your skin and budget. Follow its directions, and do not use it on skin that is currently irritated or compromised. Esenté works with boutique manufacturers to develop and select formulations that meet the brand’s ingredient, performance and quality criteria. If you are weighing a professional procedure against home care, you can Ask Victoria first.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between microdermabrasion and dermaplaning?

Microdermabrasion uses a handheld device to remove surface cells. In dermaplaning, a trained practitioner uses an appropriate sterile blade to remove superficial dead skin cells and fine vellus hair. Both are professional surface exfoliation.

Is dermabrasion the same as microdermabrasion?

No. Dermabrasion is a substantially more aggressive medical resurfacing procedure performed by a dermatologist or plastic surgeon, with numbing or anesthesia and a longer recovery.

Does hair grow back thicker after dermaplaning?

No. Removing fine facial hair with a blade does not change its thickness or color. The hair does grow back.

Can an aesthetician do dermaplaning or microdermabrasion?

It depends on the state. Some allow one or both under an aesthetics license and others restrict them. If you are unsure, check with your state board.

How long does it take to recover?

It varies with the procedure, the depth and your skin. Ask your provider what to expect. Dermabrasion involves considerably more recovery than the other two.

Can I put sunscreen on right after a procedure?

Follow your provider’s aftercare directions, which depend on the procedure and your skin. Sun protection matters after all three, and your provider can tell you when to resume daily broad-spectrum sunscreen.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.

A practitioner in pink gloves gently examining the face of a client lying on a treatment bed, her hair under a disposable capCategoriesEsente Skincare

What Happens in a Professional Facial?

Short answer: A professional facial is built around your skin rather than a fixed script. It usually begins with a conversation about your skin and routine, then cleansing and a closer look at the skin. From there, a practitioner chooses among possible components, such as exfoliation, extractions, a mask, massage, serums, moisturizer and, for a daytime appointment, sun protection. Not every facial includes every step. The choices depend on your skin that day, your goals and what the practitioner is trained and licensed to do. The consultation at the start is what turns a set of possible steps into a facial chosen for you.

What you share at the start shapes everything that follows.

It starts with a conversation

Before anything touches your skin, a good practitioner asks about it, on an intake form, in conversation, or both. The questions usually cover what you would like from the appointment, what you use at home, and anything that changes what is appropriate today. Mention any retinoid or exfoliating formulations in your routine, prescription skincare or other medications, known allergies or past reactions, recent procedures and recent sun exposure. Say so if your skin is currently irritated, sunburned or sore, and mention anything you would rather skip.

Cleansing and a closer look

Makeup usually comes off first, with eye makeup removed using a dedicated eye makeup remover, followed by a gentle cleanse of the face.

Many practitioners then look at the skin more closely, often under a magnifying lamp, noting things like dryness, texture and congestion to plan the facial. Aestheticians do not diagnose skin conditions, and if they notice something that needs a medical opinion, the appropriate step is to suggest you see a doctor. What Aestheticians Can and Cannot Legally Do explains where that line sits.

Possible components, chosen for you

These are options a practitioner may choose from, in whatever combination suits your skin. A facial without one of them is not incomplete.

Exfoliation. Many facials include some exfoliation: perhaps an enzyme or acid product, a formulation with fine particles or, where the practitioner is trained and licensed for it, a professional mechanical method. Microdermabrasion, Dermaplaning and Dermabrasion: What Is the Difference? sets those apart. On skin that is irritated or compromised, the appropriate amount may be none, and more aggressive is not more effective. How Often Should You Exfoliate? covers why.

Extractions. Some facials include clearing congested pores, gloved, after the skin has been prepared. Not every skin needs them, and whether they are offered depends on the practitioner’s training and state license. If you would rather skip them, say so.

Masks. A mask may be chosen for what the skin needs that day. Some masks are brushed on, others are smoothed on, and sheet masks are placed over the skin. Face Masks: Which Type, and How Often? walks through the main types.

Massage. Where included, facial massage uses gentle pressure, and many people find it relaxing. Does Face Massage Do Anything? keeps expectations realistic. You can ask to leave it out.

Serums, moisturizer and sun protection. Products are applied one at a time, each according to its directions, and a daytime appointment usually finishes with sun protection.

A client resting on a treatment bed by a bright window with a white mask over her face, eyes closed, a rolled towel under her head
Some masks are brushed on, while others, such as sheet masks, are placed over the skin.

How your skin may look afterward

A thoughtful practitioner chooses treatments and products to keep visible redness and irritation to a minimum. Even so, how skin looks afterward varies with the person and the procedure: some people leave looking much as they arrived, while others notice temporary redness, particularly after more intensive treatments. Ask beforehand what to expect, including any downtime, and what to use at home afterward. Anything that concerns you is worth a call to the practitioner, and anything persistent or worrying belongs with a doctor.

Treatment products and home products

A facial can include products used only by trained practitioners, such as peels and other professional-strength exfoliants, alongside products that are also sold for home use. Practices differ, so it is reasonable to ask which products in your facial are professional-only and which you could use at home. A facial and your home routine work together, and your daily routine carries the day-to-day care. Choosing the person matters as much as choosing the treatment, and How to Choose an Aesthetician covers what to look for.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. Her approach to professional treatment is individualized, with treatments and products selected for each client’s skin and care taken to minimize visible redness and irritation. During treatments, Victoria wears gloves throughout and changes them as appropriate between treatment steps to help maintain careful hygiene and avoid cross-contamination. That is her own protocol; glove practices vary between practitioners, and state rules set their own requirements.

In one Younger You Clinique professional protocol, a serum is applied to the skin, a collagen mask is placed over it for approximately 20 to 30 minutes according to the treatment protocol, and the mask is removed. A different appropriate serum and a moisturizer may then follow. Each product is applied in sequence, never mixed together beforehand. This is a professional protocol at Younger You Clinique, not a home instruction. At Younger You Clinique, professional-strength peels and exfoliating treatments are among the products reserved for professional use. Many of the other skincare products used during treatments are also available for appropriate home use. If you have a question about what a facial involves before you book one, the Ask Victoria page is a good place to start.

Frequently asked questions

What happens during a facial?

Usually a consultation, cleansing and a closer look at the skin, then components chosen for you, such as exfoliation, extractions, a mask, massage, serums and moisturizer. Not every facial includes every step.

What should I tell my aesthetician before a facial?

What you use at home, including any retinoid or exfoliating formulations, prescription skincare or other medications, allergies or past reactions, recent procedures, and whether your skin is currently irritated or sunburned.

How often should you get a facial?

There is no universal interval. It depends on your skin, your goals, the type of treatment and how your skin responds. Ask your practitioner to explain any interval they suggest.

Do facials include extractions?

Some do and some do not, depending on your skin, the type of facial, the practitioner’s training and their state license. You can ask to skip them.

Will my skin be red after a facial?

It depends on your skin and the treatment. Some people look much the same afterward, while others notice temporary redness. Ask what to expect before you book.

Are the products used in a facial different from what I use at home?

Some may be. At Younger You Clinique, for example, professional-strength peels and exfoliating treatments are among the products reserved for professional use, and many of the other skincare products used during treatments are also available for appropriate home use. Ask your practitioner which is which.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.

A woman in a straw hat with a brim all the way around, sunglasses and a loose long-sleeved white shirt by the sea on a sunny dayCategoriesEsente Skincare

Sun Protection Beyond Sunscreen: Hats, Clothing, Shade and Glass

Short answer: Sunscreen works as one part of a wider plan. In the United States, the directions on a Broad Spectrum sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher pair it with other sun protection measures: limiting time in the sun, especially from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and wearing long-sleeved shirts, pants, hats and sunglasses. Shade helps too, and some UV passes through glass. Clothing and hats may still leave areas exposed, which is where daily broad-spectrum sunscreen, applied and reapplied according to its label, comes in. Each measure covers gaps the others leave.

The sunscreen package itself presents sunscreen as one layer among several, and each of the others is practical to add.

Timing and shade

UV is most intense around the middle of the day. Dermatologists offer a quick check: if your shadow is shorter than you are, look for shade. Cool or cloudy days can still bring plenty of UV, so the temperature is not a reliable guide.

Shade from a tree, an umbrella or an awning cuts down direct sun, but it does not remove UV altogether. Water, sand, snow and some surrounding surfaces can reflect UV, adding to your overall exposure. This can matter around swimming pools, at the beach, on open water and in snowy environments. Sun-safety guidance is to keep using sunscreen and protective clothing in the shade as well, so count shade as one more layer rather than the whole plan.

Clothing

Clothing does not wear off the way sunscreen can, which makes it a practical layer for the skin it covers. How much a fabric protects varies.

Weave. Tightly woven fabric generally protects more than a loose or open weave such as lace.

Color. Darker colors generally offer more protection than lighter ones.

Dry or wet. Dry fabric protects more than wet fabric, which matters at the pool and the beach.

The label. Some clothing carries a UPF, or ultraviolet protection factor, a rating of how well the fabric blocks UV. Where protection matters, a UPF label gives you something to go by.

Even well-chosen clothing leaves some skin uncovered, often the face, the neck and the backs of the hands.

Hats and sunglasses

A hat with a wide brim all the way around shades the face, the ears and the back of the neck. A baseball cap shades the forehead but leaves the ears and neck in the sun, and straw hats with holes in the weave let sun through. A brim also cannot stop UV reflected up from water or sand.

Sunglasses are on the label’s list too. Choose a pair that blocks both UVA and UVB. Larger or wraparound frames protect more than small lenses.

Glass, cars and windows

Ordinary window glass generally filters out UVB, the rays mainly behind sunburn, while letting much of the UVA through. UVA contributes to skin aging, and both kinds of UV can contribute to skin cancer. How much UV a pane lets through depends on the type of glass, its color, any layer between panes and any coating or film.

Cars vary too. In one study of 29 cars measured in Los Angeles, the windshields consistently filtered most UVA, while the side windows filtered less and varied widely from car to car. A long daily drive with sun on a side window means regular exposure for the arm, hand and side of the face nearest the glass. UVA vs UVB: What Each Does to Your Skin explains the two kinds of light, and Do You Need Sunscreen Every Day? covers sun that reaches you indoors.

A driver's forearm and hand on the wooden steering wheel of a vintage car, bright sun falling across them through the side window
Side windows vary a great deal in how much UVA they let through.

Where sunscreen fits

Clothing and hats may leave areas exposed, often the face, ears, neck and the backs of the hands. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen covers that skin. A Broad Spectrum sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher, used as directed with other sun protection measures, decreases the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun.

Follow the label for how much to apply, how to apply it and when to reapply, including any directions for swimming, sweating or towel drying. SPF is not a measure of minutes: SPF 30 does not mean 30 minutes of protection. Applying too little can reduce protection, and applying more at once does not replace reapplying. How Much Sunscreen to Use, and When to Reapply has more detail.

The backs of the hands collect sun on every drive and are easy to miss. Why Hands Can Show Age So Easily, and What Helps explains why that shows.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. Her own routine shows how these layers fit into an ordinary day. Victoria applies daily broad-spectrum sunscreen to the backs of her hands, and she keeps lightweight linen gloves and a lightweight white shirt in the car. When driving, she wears the shirt over sleeveless tops to help cover her arms and uses the gloves for her hands, alongside sunscreen. These are her personal habits, described without any protection rating, and not a rule for anyone else.

Esenté offers two sunscreens: Derma-Defense SPF 30 in the Legacy Skincare collection and Derma Defense Z-Cote SPF30 in the Elite Skincare collection. Both are labeled Broad Spectrum SPF 30, and both are untinted. They are examples, not the only suitable choices; the right sunscreen is one that suits your skin, fits your budget and that you will use every day. Follow the label directions for whichever you use, including reapplication. For help fitting sun protection into the rest of your routine, you can Ask Victoria.

Frequently asked questions

What sun protection measures go with sunscreen?

The Directions on a Broad Spectrum sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher list limiting time in the sun, especially from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and wearing long-sleeved shirts, pants, hats and sunglasses. Shade adds another layer.

Does clothing protect you from the sun?

It protects the skin it covers, and fabrics vary. Tightly woven, darker and dry fabrics generally protect more, and a UPF on the label gives you a rating to go by.

What kind of hat protects you from the sun?

One with a wide brim all the way around, shading your face, ears and the back of your neck. Baseball caps leave the ears and neck exposed.

Can you get sun through a car window?

Yes. Windshields generally filter most UVA, while side windows vary widely from car to car, so long drives with sun on a side window add up.

Does shade protect you from the sun?

Shade reduces direct sun, but reflected UV from water, sand, snow and some surrounding surfaces can still add to your exposure. Keep using appropriate sun protection in the shade too.

Do I still need sunscreen if I wear a hat and long sleeves?

Yes, on whatever they leave uncovered, often the face, ears, neck and backs of the hands. Apply and reapply according to the label.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.

A woman blending foundation across her cheek with a makeup brush, a round mirror in the foreground, no bottles or compacts in frameCategoriesEsente Skincare

Does Makeup With SPF Count as Sunscreen?

Short answer: It can, but only if the product provides appropriate sun protection and is applied generously and evenly according to its label directions. In practice, foundation, powder and other makeup products are often applied more thinly and unevenly than the amount used for SPF testing, so relying on makeup alone may provide less protection than the SPF number suggests. The dependable approach is a Broad Spectrum sunscreen applied every morning, all year, before your makeup, with hats, clothing and shade adding protection. SPF numbers from layered products do not add together. When you are outdoors, follow the sunscreen label’s reapplication directions.

The SPF on a compact is real. The question is how much of it reaches your skin.

Why the number overstates what you get

Every SPF is measured the same way, in a laboratory test at a set amount that is generous by everyday standards.

Makeup is not applied like that. You put on enough foundation to even out your skin, and perhaps a light layer of powder to set it. Both are usually thinner than the test amount, and applying too little can reduce protection. So a foundation labeled SPF 30 is an SPF 30 product, but worn in a typical thin layer it is unlikely to give you the full SPF 30.

Coverage is uneven

Makeup goes where you want coverage, more heavily on some areas, lightly on others and rarely on the ears or neck.

A 2019 study at the University of Liverpool offers a related example. Eighty-four adults applied an SPF 30 sunscreen on one visit and an SPF 30 moisturizer on another, and UV photography showed which areas they covered. They missed more of the face with the moisturizer, mainly around the eyelids, and were unaware of the gaps. The study tested moisturizer, not makeup, but it shows how easily areas can be missed. Near the eyes, follow the sunscreen label and keep it out of the eyes.

Layered SPF numbers do not add up

Wearing an SPF moisturizer, a sunscreen and an SPF foundation together does not give you the sum of their numbers: SPF 30 plus SPF 15 is not SPF 45. Rely on the sunscreen, applied as its label directs, rather than on the SPF in your makeup.

When an SPF product does count

In the United States, moisturizers and makeup marketed with sun protection claims are regulated as both cosmetics and drugs. That is why they carry a Drug Facts panel.

If a moisturizer or tinted product is labeled Broad Spectrum SPF 30 or higher, and you apply it generously and evenly to all the skin that needs it, as its label directs, it is doing a sunscreen’s job. The difficulty is the amount, since moisturizer often goes on thinly. Day Cream vs Night Cream covers how an SPF day cream fits into the morning.

Sunscreen first, every day

Daily sunscreen belongs in every season. In the morning, cleanse, then use an appropriate toner or mist, serum and moisturizer, each according to the product’s directions. Apply sunscreen generously and evenly as your daytime sun protection, following its label, and take it past where your makeup stops: the ears, neck, chest and backs of the hands. Then apply makeup. How to Prepare Your Skin for Makeup covers the steps in order.

Hats, clothing and shade

A wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, clothing that covers the skin and time in the shade all reduce the UV reaching you, especially in the middle of the day. Hats and clothing may still leave some areas exposed. These measures work alongside sunscreen and do not replace reapplying it when the label says to.

Reapplying on days outdoors

When you are outdoors, follow the sunscreen label’s reapplication directions: at least every two hours, and as the label states for swimming, sweating and towel drying. If a long stretch outdoors is coming, plan your makeup and sun-protection routine so that you can reapply sunscreen evenly according to its label directions. How Much Sunscreen to Use, and When to Reapply covers the label directions in full.

Before bed

Makeup, sunscreen and oil all come off before bed: eye makeup first, with a dedicated eye makeup remover, then a thorough, gentle facial cleanse. How to Take Your Makeup Off Properly goes through it.

A woman in a wide-brimmed straw hat and sunglasses standing beside a flowering oleander bush
A hat, sunglasses and shade work alongside the sunscreen applied before makeup.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. Makeup covers the face, and her own sun habits reach further. Victoria applies daily broad-spectrum sunscreen to the backs of her hands, and when driving she wears lightweight white linen gloves to help reduce continued sun exposure. That is her own preventive practice rather than a requirement for everyone. At bedtime her emphasis is a thoroughly clean, makeup-free face. She removes eye makeup first, using small sterile, non-impregnated gauze squares with a dedicated eye makeup remover, then discards them. For facial cleansing she prefers professional facial sponges used gently with an appropriate cleanser, though fingertips are acceptable. Whatever your routine, don’t go to sleep wearing makeup.

For the sunscreen layer under your makeup, Esenté offers Derma-Defense SPF 30 in the Legacy Skincare collection and Derma Defense Z-Cote SPF30 in the Elite Skincare collection. Both are labeled Broad Spectrum SPF 30, and both are untinted. They are examples among many suitable sunscreens, chosen for your skin, preferences and budget; follow the label directions for whichever you use. If you want help fitting sunscreen into your makeup routine, ask through the Ask Victoria page.

Frequently asked questions

Is SPF in foundation enough?

It can be, but only if it provides appropriate sun protection and is applied generously and evenly according to its label directions. In practice, foundation is often worn more thinly and unevenly than the amount used for SPF testing, so apply a Broad Spectrum sunscreen first, as its label directs, rather than relying on the foundation’s SPF alone.

Does powder with SPF protect you?

Not dependably. A light layer of powder is far from the amount used in SPF testing, and coverage tends to be uneven. Do not rely on it as your only protection; apply a Broad Spectrum sunscreen before makeup.

Should I put sunscreen on before or after makeup?

Before. Apply sunscreen after the rest of your morning skincare, following its label, then apply makeup. That way sun protection, not the look of your makeup, sets the amount.

How do I stay protected on a day outdoors when I wear makeup?

Follow the sunscreen label’s reapplication directions whenever you are outdoors. If a long outdoor stretch is planned, consider in advance how you will reapply sunscreen evenly with your makeup routine. Hats, clothing and shade help alongside sunscreen, not instead of reapplying.

Do I still need to wash off sunscreen at night if I wore makeup?

Yes. Sunscreen, makeup and the day’s oil should all come off before bed. Remove eye makeup first with a dedicated eye makeup remover, then cleanse thoroughly and gently, and go to bed with a completely clean face.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.

Afternoon sunlight falling through a large living-room window onto a person reading on a sofa beside the glassCategoriesEsente Skincare

UVA vs UVB: What Each Does to Your Skin

Short answer: UVA and UVB are two bands of the ultraviolet light in sunlight, and both can harm your skin. UVB is the main cause of sunburn, and it also contributes to skin aging and skin cancer. UVA has a longer wavelength, reaches deeper into the skin, contributes to visible aging such as wrinkles and age spots, and adds to skin cancer risk too. UVB varies most with the time of day and the season, and ordinary window glass blocks it. UVA is present all year, comes through cloud and can pass through window glass. Look for Broad Spectrum on a sunscreen label as well as the SPF.

Confusion often starts when the two are lumped together, or split too neatly.

Two bands of the same light

Ultraviolet light sits beyond the violet end of visible light. The part that reaches the ground comes in two bands. UVB has the shorter wavelength, and UVA the longer.

The atmosphere filters out most UVB before it arrives, while most UVA gets through. So most of the ultraviolet reaching your skin is UVA, even though UVB gets more attention because it is the one you can see by evening.

What UVB does

Sunburn. UVB is the primary cause of sunburn, and it acts mainly on the skin’s outer layers.

More than a burn. UVB also contributes to skin aging and skin cancer. Sunburn is a sign of short-term overexposure, while premature aging and skin cancer are effects of prolonged exposure.

It varies a lot. UV levels, and UVB in particular, are highest when the sun is high in the sky: around the middle of the day, in summer and closer to the equator. UV levels also rise with altitude. Water, sand, fresh snow and some surrounding surfaces can reflect UV, adding to your overall exposure, something worth remembering around swimming pools, at the beach, on open water and in snowy environments.

What UVA does

It goes deeper. UVA’s longer wavelength reaches deeper layers of the skin than UVB does.

Visible aging and cancer risk. UVA contributes to wrinkles and age spots, and overexposure to UVA, as to UVB, can lead to skin cancer.

It is there all year. UVA changes less with the seasons than UVB does, so in winter a larger share of the ultraviolet reaching you is UVA. It is present whenever there is daylight.

It arrives without much warning. Because UVB does most of the burning, a day with plenty of UVA can pass without the redness that tells you when you have had too much sun.

That is why the shorthand “UVB burns, UVA ages” is too neat. Both contribute to visible aging, both contribute to skin cancer risk, and protection against both matters. What Sun Damage Looks Like on Your Skin covers the visible signs. Any new, changing or unusual spot belongs with a dermatologist.

Glass and cloud

Window glass. Ordinary window glass blocks UVB. UVA can pass through, and how much depends on the glass, including its type, color, coatings and any laminated layers. A 2016 study of 29 cars found that windshields, which are laminated, blocked most UVA, while side windows blocked less on average and varied widely from car to car. Crepey Skin on the Neck and Décolleté looks at what years of that exposure can mean.

Cloud. UV levels are highest under clear skies, but they can still be high under cloud cover, and how much gets through depends on the cloud. UVB can still burn you on an overcast day, and UVA comes through cloud too.

Do You Need Sunscreen Every Day? explains why sun protection is a daily habit rather than a beach one.

A pale, overcast sky above a city park with bare trees, a few people walking in soft, shadowless light
Cloud cover can reduce UV without stopping it.

What this means for your sunscreen

SPF is mainly about UVB. The SPF number measures protection against sunburn, which is mostly a UVB effect. What SPF Measures, and What It Does Not explains the number.

Broad Spectrum adds UVA. In the United States, the words Broad Spectrum mean a sunscreen has passed FDA’s test requiring its UVA protection to rise in proportion to its UVB protection. A Broad Spectrum sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher, used as directed with other sun protection measures, decreases the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun.

Sunscreen is one measure. Shade, hats, covering clothing and sunglasses work alongside it.

Cover the places UVA finds. The backs of the hands on a steering wheel, the side of the face nearest the car window, the neck and the chest. Why Hands Can Show Age So Easily covers the hands.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. Her own preventive habits extend to the car. Victoria applies daily broad-spectrum sunscreen to the backs of her hands, and when driving she wears lightweight white linen gloves to help reduce continued sun exposure. That is her own practice, not a requirement for everyone.

Esenté offers two sunscreens: Derma-Defense SPF 30 in the Legacy Skincare collection and Derma Defense Z-Cote SPF30 in the Elite Skincare collection. Both are labeled Broad Spectrum SPF 30. They are examples among many suitable sunscreens, and the right one depends on your skin, your preferences and your budget. Follow the label directions for whichever you use, including the amount to apply and when to reapply. You can put a question about daily sun protection to Victoria through the Ask Victoria page.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between UVA and UVB?

UVB has a shorter wavelength and is the main cause of sunburn. UVA has a longer wavelength and reaches deeper into the skin. Both contribute to skin aging and skin cancer risk, and a Broad Spectrum sunscreen is labeled for protection against both.

Which is worse for your skin, UVA or UVB?

Neither is harmless. UVB does most of the burning. UVA is present year-round, through cloud and window glass, and contributes to visible aging. Both add to skin cancer risk, so protecting against only one leaves a gap.

Does UVA come through windows?

It can. Ordinary window glass blocks UVB, but UVA can pass through, and how much depends on the glass. In one study of cars, windshields blocked more UVA than side windows, which varied widely from car to car.

Can you get UV exposure on a cloudy day?

Yes. Cloud can reduce UV without stopping it, and levels can still be high under cloud cover. UVB can still burn you on an overcast day, and UVA comes through too.

Does SPF protect against UVA?

SPF is mainly a measure of UVB protection. To know a sunscreen also covers UVA, look for the words Broad Spectrum, which mean it passed FDA’s test requiring UVA protection in proportion to its UVB protection.

Is UVA present in winter?

Yes. UVA changes less with the seasons than UVB, so it makes up a larger share of the ultraviolet in winter daylight. Fresh snow also reflects UV. Daily Broad Spectrum sunscreen, applied as the label directs, belongs in a winter routine as much as a summer one.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.

A swimmer at the edge of an outdoor pool drying her wet hair with a blue towel in bright sunCategoriesEsente Skincare

How Much Sunscreen to Use, and When to Reapply

Short answer: Use enough to give all exposed skin a generous, even layer: apply generously and evenly according to the product’s label directions. The SPF on the label was measured at a set, generous amount, and applying too little can reduce protection. Reapplying also follows the label. US sunscreen labels say to reapply at least every two hours, and water resistant products add directions for swimming, sweating and towel drying. SPF is not a measure of time, and applying more in the morning does not replace reapplying later in the day.

Amount and timing do as much of the work as the number on the front.

Why the amount matters

The SPF number comes from a laboratory test that applies sunscreen at a set, generous amount and spreads it as evenly as possible. Many people apply less than that in everyday life.

Applying too little can reduce protection, so a thin layer of SPF 30 gives you less than the protection that number describes. Choosing a higher SPF does not make up for applying too little.

How much is enough

Follow the label. Apply generously and evenly according to the product’s label directions. US sunscreen labels say to apply “liberally” or “generously”, and some add “evenly”. Cover all the skin that will be exposed to the sun, not only the face.

Why the label is your guide. Sun-safety organizations describe the quantity for the face and body in different ways, so the label of the sunscreen you are using is your guide. Larger bodies need more product.

Timing. Label directions say to apply 15 minutes before sun exposure, and dermatology guidance says to apply sunscreen to dry skin.

When to reapply

SPF is not a timer. SPF 30 does not mean 30 minutes of protection, or 30 times longer in the sun. Reapplication follows the label, whatever the number.

At least every two hours. US sunscreen labels say to reapply at least every two hours. A higher SPF does not stretch the interval, and a thicker morning layer does not replace reapplying.

After swimming or sweating. A water resistant sunscreen is labeled water resistant (40 minutes) or water resistant (80 minutes) and tells you to reapply after that much swimming or sweating. A product that is not water resistant tells you to use a water resistant sunscreen if you will be swimming or sweating.

Immediately after towel drying. Water resistant labels list this separately.

After washing your hands. Frequent washing can leave the backs of the hands without the protection you applied in the morning, so reapply there before you head back into the sun. Why Hands Can Show Age So Easily explains why hands collect so much sun.

Match it to your day. Reapplication depends on your sun exposure and the label, not on whether the day counts as an indoor one. If you will be outdoors, driving or sitting by a sunny window for long periods, follow the label’s directions for reapplying. Do You Need Sunscreen Every Day? covers the everyday habit.

The places people miss

Commonly missed places include:

  • The ears, front and back.
  • The back and sides of the neck.
  • The top of the head, especially along a parting or where hair is thin.
  • The tops of the feet.
  • The backs of the hands.
  • The lips, which need a lip product labeled with an SPF; dermatology guidance suggests SPF 30 or higher.

The hairline and the chest above a neckline are easy to miss too. Crepey Skin on the Neck and Décolleté explains why that skin shows sun so readily.

Keeping it working

Store it out of the heat. Sunscreen labels direct you to protect the product from excessive heat and direct sun, so a hot car or a sunny windowsill is not the place for it.

Check the date. Use a sunscreen before its expiration date. FDA advises that a sunscreen without an expiration date should be considered expired three years after purchase. If a product has separated, changed color or developed an unusual odor, stop using it or check with the manufacturer.

Make reapplying easy. Keep a sunscreen where you will need it, away from direct sun. What SPF Measures, and What It Does Not explains why a high number is no reason to skip the next application.

The tops of bare feet in flip-flops on a sunlit wooden deck
The tops of the feet are easy to miss when you apply sunscreen.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. The backs of the hands feature in Victoria’s own routine. She applies daily broad-spectrum sunscreen to the backs of her hands, and when driving she wears lightweight white linen gloves to help reduce continued sun exposure. That is her own preventive practice rather than a requirement for everyone.

Esenté offers two sunscreens: Derma-Defense SPF 30 in the Legacy Skincare collection and Derma Defense Z-Cote SPF30 in the Elite Skincare collection. Both are labeled Broad Spectrum SPF 30. They are examples among many suitable sunscreens, chosen for your skin, preferences and budget. How much to apply and when to reapply are on the label, so follow the directions for whichever you choose. The Ask Victoria page is there if you have a question about fitting reapplication into your day.

Frequently asked questions

How much sunscreen should I use on my face?

Apply generously and evenly according to the product’s label directions, and remember the ears and neck as well as the face. The SPF was measured at a generous, even layer, and applying too little can reduce protection. If you are unsure how much your sunscreen needs, ask your dermatologist.

How often should I reapply sunscreen?

At least every two hours, according to the directions on US sunscreen labels. Water resistant products also say to reapply after 40 or 80 minutes of swimming or sweating, as stated on the label, and immediately after towel drying.

Does SPF 30 mean 30 minutes of protection?

No. SPF measures how much protection a properly applied layer gives against sunburn, not how long it lasts. SPF 30 does not mean 30 minutes, or 30 times longer in the sun. Reapply as the label directs, whatever the number.

Can I put on extra sunscreen in the morning instead of reapplying?

No. Applying more does not replace reapplication, because sunscreen rubs, sweats and washes off over the day. Apply a generous, even layer, then reapply, as the label directs.

Do I need to reapply sunscreen if I stay indoors?

It depends on your sun exposure. If you go outside, drive or sit by a sunny window for long periods, follow the label’s directions for reapplying. Your day and the label decide when the next application is due.

Does water resistant sunscreen stay on while I swim?

For a limited time. A water resistant sunscreen has been tested for 40 or 80 minutes of swimming or sweating, and the label tells you which. All sunscreens eventually wash off, so reapply after that time and immediately after towel drying.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.

The sun low over the sea and distant mountains, seen from a quiet pebbly beach with gentle surfCategoriesEsente Skincare

What SPF Measures, and What It Does Not

Short answer: SPF stands for sun protection factor, and it is measured under standardized test conditions. SPF primarily measures protection against sunburn, which is driven mainly by UVB. The SPF number alone does not tell you whether a sunscreen provides adequate UVA protection; in the United States, look for the words Broad Spectrum for that additional information. SPF is not a measure of time: SPF 30 does not mean 30 minutes, or 30 times longer in the sun. The number also assumes a generous, even layer. Whatever the SPF, apply as the label directs and reapply as the label directs.

It is often the largest number on a sunscreen label, and easy to misread.

How the number is made

The SPF test is run on volunteers. Small areas of skin receive measured doses of light from a lamp that imitates sunlight, some with sunscreen applied at a set, generous amount and some without. The next day, testers compare the doses that produced a faint redness. If protected skin takes 30 times the dose to redden that unprotected skin takes, the product is SPF 30.

What SPF tells you

It tells you about sunburn protection, and sunburn is mostly a UVB effect, so SPF is primarily a measure of UVB protection. A higher number means more sunburn protection when the product is applied as tested. Dermatology guidance generally recommends SPF 30 or higher for everyday use.

What SPF does not tell you

How well it covers UVA. UVA is the longer-wave part of UV. It plays a smaller part in sunburn but is linked to visible skin aging and skin cancer risk, and the SPF number alone does not tell you whether UVA protection is adequate. In the United States, the words Broad Spectrum mean a product has passed FDA’s broad spectrum test, which requires its UVA protection to rise in proportion to its UVB protection. UVA vs UVB: What Each Does to Your Skin explains the difference.

How long you can stay out. SPF is not minutes of protection. SPF 30 does not mean 30 minutes, and it does not mean you can stay in the sun 30 times longer than without it. FDA describes SPF as related to the amount of solar exposure, not the time. The same hour delivers far more UV at midday than in the early morning, and sunscreen rubs off, sweats off and washes off over the day.

How much you applied. The number assumes the test amount, applied evenly. Many people apply less, and applying too little can reduce the protection you get below what the label states. How Much Sunscreen to Use, and When to Reapply covers application and reapplication.

Reapplying, whatever the number

Reapplication follows the label, not the SPF. US sunscreen labels say to reapply at least every two hours, and they add directions for swimming and sweating. That holds for SPF 15, SPF 30 and SPF 50 alike. A higher number does not stretch the interval, and applying a thicker layer in the morning does not replace reapplying later.

Choosing a higher SPF is also no substitute for applying enough. Whatever the number, apply generously and evenly as the label directs, then reapply as it directs. Do You Need Sunscreen Every Day? covers the daily side of the habit.

Higher numbers

Protection rises with SPF, but not in a straight line. Higher numbers filter somewhat more UVB, each step up adds less than the one before, and no sunscreen filters out all UVB. Some people choose a higher number for long days outdoors; the label’s application and reapplication directions still apply in full.

The words that go with the number

Sunscreen is an over-the-counter drug in the United States, so the wording around SPF is set.

“Helps prevent sunburn.” Any compliant sunscreen may say this.

The longer claim. Only a Broad Spectrum sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher may also say that, if used as directed with other sun protection measures, it decreases the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun. The label lists those measures: limiting time in the sun, especially from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and wearing long-sleeved shirts, pants, hats and sunglasses.

The alert. A sunscreen that is not Broad Spectrum, or has an SPF below 15, carries a warning that it has been shown only to help prevent sunburn, not skin cancer or early skin aging.

A man photographed from behind outdoors, a sun shape drawn in white sunscreen across his shoulder blade
Sunburn is what the SPF test measures, and it is mostly a UVB effect.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. The sunscreen label asks for “other sun protection measures”, and Victoria’s own habits include one. She applies daily broad-spectrum sunscreen to the backs of her hands, and when driving she wears lightweight white linen gloves to help reduce continued sun exposure. That is her personal preventive practice, not a requirement for everyone.

Esenté offers two sunscreens: Derma-Defense SPF 30 in the Legacy Skincare collection and Derma Defense Z-Cote SPF30 in the Elite Skincare collection. Both are labeled Broad Spectrum SPF 30. They are examples among many suitable sunscreens, and the choice depends on your skin, your preferences and your budget. Follow the label directions for whichever you use, including the amount to apply and when to reapply. For a question about reading a sunscreen label, try the Ask Victoria page.

Frequently asked questions

What does SPF stand for?

Sun protection factor. It describes how much more UV it takes to cause sunburn on skin wearing the product than on unprotected skin, measured under standardized test conditions. Because sunburn comes mostly from UVB, SPF is mainly a measure of UVB protection.

Does SPF 30 mean I can stay in the sun for 30 minutes, or 30 times longer?

No. SPF is not a measure of time. FDA describes it as related to the amount of solar exposure, and UV intensity changes through the day. Whatever the SPF, reapply as the label directs, including its directions for swimming and sweating.

Is SPF 50 much better than SPF 30?

It filters somewhat more UVB, but the difference is smaller than the numbers suggest. Neither number lets you apply less or reapply less often, so follow the label for both.

Does a higher SPF make up for applying a thin layer?

No. Applying too little can reduce protection below what the label states, at any SPF. Choose a Broad Spectrum sunscreen with a suitable SPF, then apply the amount and reapply as its label directs.

Does SPF protect against UVA?

Not by itself. SPF mainly measures UVB-related sunburn protection. Look for the words Broad Spectrum, which mean the product passed FDA’s test requiring its UVA protection to rise in proportion to its UVB protection.

Is the SPF in a moisturizer the same as a sunscreen?

If it is labeled as a sunscreen, with a Drug Facts panel, it was tested the same way. The number assumes a generous, even layer, and moisturizer often goes on thinly, so follow its label or wear a separate sunscreen.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.

A woman in a swimsuit smoothing lotion into her upper arm beside a sunlit pool, no container in frameCategoriesEsente Skincare

Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen: What Is the Difference?

Short answer: Mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or both as their UV filters. The ones people call “chemical” use organic filters, with names such as avobenzone, octisalate or octinoxate. Here “organic” is a chemistry term, not an organic certification. Many sunscreens combine both kinds. The familiar idea that mineral sunscreen reflects UV while chemical sunscreen absorbs it is an oversimplification: both work mainly by absorbing UV. What matters more than the category is a Broad Spectrum label, an appropriate SPF, a complete formulation that suits your skin, and applying it as the label directs every day.

The Drug Facts panel on the back tells you which kind you are holding.

What the two names mean

Mineral. A mineral sunscreen relies on zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or both as its UV filters. You will also see these called physical sunscreens.

Chemical, or organic-filter. These sunscreens rely on organic filters, such as avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, octinoxate and octocrylene. In chemistry, “organic” describes carbon-based compounds. It has nothing to do with organic certification, and it does not mean “natural”.

Both. Many sunscreens combine a mineral filter with organic ones. They are sometimes called hybrids.

In the United States, sunscreen carries a Drug Facts panel, and its first section lists the UV filters by name. How to Read a Skincare Ingredient List explains more.

The reflect-or-absorb story

The usual explanation: mineral sunscreen bounces UV away like a mirror, and chemical sunscreen soaks it up.

The second half holds. The first half is an oversimplification. Laboratory measurements published in 2016 found that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide protect mainly by absorbing UV, with reflection playing only a small part across the UV range. Dermatology guidance now describes mineral, chemical and combined sunscreens alike as absorbing UV, with mineral filters also reflecting some.

So you are choosing between formulations with different looks, textures and ingredient lists, not between two opposite ways of working.

Where they differ in practice

How they look. Because zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are white, some mineral sunscreens can leave a visible white or grayish cast. How much varies by formulation. Some people choose a tinted sunscreen to help; tinted products are a separate group with their own ingredients and labels.

How they feel. Texture depends on the complete formulation, including everything that is not a filter, so the category alone does not tell you how a product will feel.

How your skin responds. Dermatology guidance often points people with sensitive skin toward sunscreens whose filters are zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. That is a general tendency, not a guarantee. Your skin responds to the complete formulation, including the UV filters, base ingredients and any ingredients that may be irritating or sensitizing for you. If your skin reacts easily, read the complete ingredient list before you choose, and ask your dermatologist if you are unsure. How to Patch Test a New Product explains when a small test can be an extra precaution. If a rash occurs, stop using the product and ask a doctor, as sunscreen labels direct.

What matters more than the category

Broad Spectrum. In the United States, this term means the product passed FDA’s broad spectrum test, which requires its UVA protection to rise in proportion to its UVB protection. SPF alone tells you about sunburn protection. Look for both.

The SPF. Dermatology guidance generally recommends SPF 30 or higher. What SPF Measures, and What It Does Not explains what the number covers.

The claim on the label. Any compliant sunscreen may say it helps prevent sunburn. Only a Broad Spectrum sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher may also say that, if used as directed with other sun protection measures, it decreases the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun. Mineral, organic-filter and combined sunscreens can all carry that wording.

Choosing one you will wear

The sunscreen that protects you is one you apply every morning, generously and evenly according to its label, and reapply as the label directs when you are in the sun. If a white cast or a texture bothers you so much that you skip it, that formulation is not the right one for you. Trying more than one is reasonable, and suitable sun protection can fit different budgets.

Take it past the face to the neck, chest, ears and backs of the hands. Do You Need Sunscreen Every Day? makes the case for the daily habit, and Why Hands Can Show Age So Easily covers the hands.

Three friends with different skin tones sitting side by side in a sunny park, smiling
How a sunscreen looks on skin depends on the formulation and on the skin it is worn on.

Victoria’s approach

Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator. She draws on her professional experience at Younger You Clinique when evaluating skincare products and their performance. Her own habits show how far daily protection can reach. Victoria applies daily broad-spectrum sunscreen to the backs of her hands, and when driving she wears lightweight white linen gloves to help reduce continued sun exposure. That is her personal preventive practice, not a requirement for everyone.

Esenté offers two sunscreens: Derma-Defense SPF 30 in the Legacy Skincare collection and Derma Defense Z-Cote SPF30 in the Elite Skincare collection. Both are labeled Broad Spectrum SPF 30, and both are untinted. According to their listed active ingredients, each combines zinc oxide with octinoxate and octisalate, so neither is a mineral-only sunscreen. They are two options among many suitable sunscreens, and the right choice depends on your skin, your preferences and your budget. Whichever you use, follow its label directions for amount, application and reapplication. If you are unsure which suits your routine, send your question through the Ask Victoria page.

Frequently asked questions

Is mineral sunscreen better than chemical sunscreen?

Neither category is better across the board. Both work mainly by absorbing UV, and both can be labeled Broad Spectrum with SPF 30 or higher. The complete formulation and how your skin responds matter more. Choose a Broad Spectrum sunscreen you will apply as its label directs, every day.

Does mineral sunscreen reflect UV?

A little. Laboratory measurements have found that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide protect mainly by absorbing UV, with reflection playing a small part. The picture of mineral sunscreen as a mirror on the skin is an oversimplification.

What does “organic” mean on a sunscreen?

It is a chemistry term for carbon-based UV filter compounds, such as avobenzone, octisalate or octinoxate. It is not an organic certification, and it does not mean the sunscreen is natural or gentler. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the inorganic, or mineral, filters.

Is mineral sunscreen better for sensitive skin?

Dermatology guidance often points sensitive skin toward zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. It is a tendency, not a rule, because the rest of the formulation also affects how your skin responds.

How do I tell which kind of sunscreen I have?

Check the first section of the Drug Facts panel, where the UV filters are listed. Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide means a mineral filter. Names such as avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate or octinoxate are organic filters. Many products contain both kinds.

About the author. Victoria Nash, founder of Esenté Skincare, has been a licensed aesthetician since 2003. She also owns and operates Younger You Clinique and is an experienced skincare educator.

Reviewed by Victoria Nash, licensed aesthetician, founder of Esenté Skincare and owner of Younger You Clinique. This article is educational and is not medical advice. Ask your dermatologist or licensed skincare professional about products appropriate for your own skin and medical history.